Image is everything. Just ask professional tailor John Philbeck. He says
one of his biggest challenges is teaching business and professional people
how important it is to be properly dressed.
"Most men that I speak to for the first time have spent very little time
considering the impact that their image has on the people they come in contact
with each day," says Philbeck.
Image affects not only the way you are perceived, but also the way you
are received. That's where his expertise as a professional tailor comes in.
It's Philbeck's job to make others look the best they can.
The magic of the profession, says Philbeck, is "the ability to take a piece
of flat fabric and, with simple tools, create a work of art that will flatter
and enhance the person's presence."
Master tailor Mike Vonella cut his first pair of pants at age 11.
Vonella learned his art from a master tailor. He says learning the art
and craft of tailoring "runs from generation to generation. It is very difficult
to learn, but very interesting and important."
Vonella began his career as a tailor when he was 16. He had a hard time
convincing others of his talent when he was very young. In fact, when he was
17, he went to Switzerland to work for a shoe company until he was able to
switch to a clothing company at age 18.
Tailoring is not only knowing the fabric and the tools of the trade. Vonella
says it's also cultivating the right rapport with the customer.
"You have to ask questions," he says. "Ask the right question to know what
they're looking for. You also have to know where to find it."
Vonella says attention to detail is vital in his profession. "You have
to calculate exactly how much material you need -- but that depends on the
type of material you'll be working with."
For Ted Lazich, working in the tailoring profession is all in the family.
His parents, Gilbert and Stella Lazich, began their business in 1951. Their
clothing became popular. Local wrestlers and football players request their
handmade work.
"Being a family-run business, our tailor shop consists of three full-time
tailors and two seamstresses," says Lazich. "The main activities of our tailor
shop are more custom fitting, as opposed to 'made to measure.' We are constantly
doing major adjustments for our big and tall customers. Fit is more critical
to them than to the average-sized customer."
Lazich explains that a "made-to-measure" suit is cut by hand from a pattern
made by the tailor for the specific client's dimensions. All the detailed
measurements are taken and applied to this client's profile.
This eliminates multiple adjustments required with an off-the-rack suit.
"Most of the clients requiring 'made to measure' are either extremely difficult
to fit or businessmen who prefer a better constructed garment than the factory-made
suit."
Working as a tailor has given Philbeck many unexpected and exciting moments.
One of those is "working with professional sport figures, [such as] golfer
Tom Kite, Indy racer Al Unser and sports announcer Judy Rankin."
Christine Ryan works her dressmaking magic in Pasadena, Maryland. She says
the most challenging aspect is creating the desired design while dealing with
the many variables involved. These include body size and type and fabric characteristics.
"The exact same garment on the exact same body will fit entirely differently
when made in two different fabrics," she says. "There is no one right way
to achieve a desired result. The challenge and the fun is in finding a way
to make the look you want happen."
Ryan's satisfaction comes from the thrill she gets from creating quality
garments that fit and flatter. "Both the garment and the client look and feel
good. That, in turn, makes me feel good, too."
Ryan believes those individuals who have the instinct to create great clothing
will always find a way to be involved. Being able to make her own schedule
played a large part in her decision to enter this field.
"This allowed me to earn an income while still remaining home with my children.
The flexibility and the option to take on as much or as little business as
I wanted offered me the best of both worlds," says Ryan.
Cherie Bartron specializes in medieval and Renaissance clothing, which
she sells from her website. She enjoys the profession because it also allows
her to stay home with her children. "It's relaxing for me. Even a challenging
project is great stress relief for me."
Encouragement and experience led to Bartron's new profession. "My teacher
was very encouraging and inspirational for me. She told me I had a natural
ability and took the time to teach me a few tricks about sewing. My only other
education is experience. Confidence makes a big difference."
The most challenging aspect of getting her business off the ground, says
Bartron, has been "getting customers and finding the time to fill my orders
around my family schedule."
Bartron has been sewing for many years, but says the professional part
came quite by accident. "I'd been sewing capes for a local business. My husband
and I are very interested in the medieval and Renaissance eras and own several
patterns. One evening after I delivered some capes, my husband asked what
I thought of selling my items on a website. I thought it was a wonderful idea."
Just because you enjoy something, however, doesn't mean you would necessarily
be good at it from a business standpoint. "I'm sure it can be a good means
of supporting yourself if you have the right advertising and the right market,"
says Bartron. "[But] I think it could be slow start for someone just starting
up. There are a lot of variables."
Think you might want to be a professional tailor? Philbeck says you'll
need to be driven and have a tough hide, too. "The difficult part of this
profession is just that -- it is a profession. You can see your results or
lack thereof."
Ryan was surprised to learn of the tremendous impact word-of-mouth advertising
carried. Since she operates her own business, Ryan must cultivate her own
clients.
"I was amazed at how many new clients come to me because they have learned
of my work from a previous client."
Ryan no longer advertises her services. She acquires clients by referrals
from an already-satisfied client or fabric stores in her area.
"Once you build a client base, you will find that your reputation will
spread rapidly," she adds.
Ryan says she would strongly encourage students to investigate the many
opportunities that exist. "Assisting or apprenticing is a great way to get
education and experience at the same time. You can also determine which aspect
of the profession you find most enjoyable or most suited to your individual
temperament.
"Each aspect can be very different, and some students may strongly prefer
to work in just one area," says Ryan. "Others may relish a combination of
a few or all possible departments."
Vonella believes the best way for a young person to learn the profession
is from a master tailor. "Search for the best tailor in the country and learn
from him."
Lazich agrees. "Most students in fashion design courses pursue
courses in computerized pattern drafting to work in a large factory. On-the-job
training is highly recommended in this field."